SPECIAL FEATURE
SFAUDi SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR
Compiled by Hamish Robertson
posted 28/11/18
In October 2018, a group of SFAUDi members visited Santiago and Valparaiso in Chile, then flew to Montevideo in Uruguay, travelled to Punta del Este on the South Atlantic coast, finally heading back to Montevideo and on to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Colonia del Sacramento. For the final leg of the journey they took a ferry across the River Plate to the glittering city of Buenos Aires, which despite Argentina's economic difficulties, looked surprisingly prosperous.
The following images show some of the highlights of the tour.
SANTIAGO AND VALPARAISO
Compiled by Hamish Robertson
posted 28/11/18
In October 2018, a group of SFAUDi members visited Santiago and Valparaiso in Chile, then flew to Montevideo in Uruguay, travelled to Punta del Este on the South Atlantic coast, finally heading back to Montevideo and on to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Colonia del Sacramento. For the final leg of the journey they took a ferry across the River Plate to the glittering city of Buenos Aires, which despite Argentina's economic difficulties, looked surprisingly prosperous.
The following images show some of the highlights of the tour.
SANTIAGO AND VALPARAISO
Looking down towards the Santiago CBD from the Japanese Garden on Santa Lucia Hill, which contains remnants of the early 19th century Fort Hidalgo, and which was also the site of a cemetery for non Roman Catholics. In recent years a large number of office towers have been built, including the 261 metre Gran Torre Santiago, reflecting Chile's strong economy and growing prosperity. However, this city of six million also contains pockets of significant poverty, and atmospheric pollution, trapped between the Andes to the east and a range of coastal mountains to the west, is a constant problem, and has been linked to cardiovascular disease as well as chronic bronchitis and other respiratory conditions.
Brass bas-relief maps in the Plaza de Armas show how Santiago has evolved and grown over the centuries. The strict grid plan of the streets, which was Spain's urban design policy in all of its American colonies, is interrupted by the curving course of the Mapocho River, which flows down from the Andes through the heart of the city.
Once grand mansions (above and below) have been converted into successful boutique hotels. The image above shows The Aubrey, built in 1927 as the family home of a Chilean politician. After standing derelict for many years, it was bought by an Australian investor and carefully restored, opening as a hotel in 2010.
Below: dusk in central Santiago at the start of the evening peak hour:
Pictured below: SFAUDi Vice President Ann Warr presents a copy of SFAUDi President Paul McGillick's "HB Design: Selected Architectural Works" to Dr. Andrea Wechsler Pizarro, Director of Research and Development at the University of Chile's Faculty of Architecture and Urbanism, and her husband Rodrigo
VALPARAISO
Before the opening of the Panama Canal in 1914, Valparaíso was one of the most important seaports in Latin America. By the end of the nineteenth century, it had become such an international hub for shipping, trade and commerce that it was more common to hear English spoken in the streets rather than Spanish. The city became known by the seamen and immigrants who swelled its population as “Little San Francisco.”
In 2003 the historic sector of the city, situated on the hills rising behind the port and reached by 16 funiculars, (there used to be many more), was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Today, many of the grand houses that cluster on the slopes of the historic quarter are run down - the wealthy families that once lived there relocated to Santiago long ago. But signs of renewal are becoming evident, with the opening of boutique hotels and restaurants, and some of the old houses converted into artists’ studios and craft workshops. “Wall art” is also a major feature - ranging from impressive murals to more mundane graffiti - which, at least at present - appears to be tolerated, as tags cover virtually every available surface.
Below: a view of Concepción Hill, looking towards the Lutheran Church of the Holy Cross, built in 1897. It's estimated that today about half a million Chileans have at least some German ancestry.
Before the opening of the Panama Canal in 1914, Valparaíso was one of the most important seaports in Latin America. By the end of the nineteenth century, it had become such an international hub for shipping, trade and commerce that it was more common to hear English spoken in the streets rather than Spanish. The city became known by the seamen and immigrants who swelled its population as “Little San Francisco.”
In 2003 the historic sector of the city, situated on the hills rising behind the port and reached by 16 funiculars, (there used to be many more), was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Today, many of the grand houses that cluster on the slopes of the historic quarter are run down - the wealthy families that once lived there relocated to Santiago long ago. But signs of renewal are becoming evident, with the opening of boutique hotels and restaurants, and some of the old houses converted into artists’ studios and craft workshops. “Wall art” is also a major feature - ranging from impressive murals to more mundane graffiti - which, at least at present - appears to be tolerated, as tags cover virtually every available surface.
Below: a view of Concepción Hill, looking towards the Lutheran Church of the Holy Cross, built in 1897. It's estimated that today about half a million Chileans have at least some German ancestry.
Pictured below is one of the sixteen funicular railways that take passengers up to the higher levels of Valparaiso's Historic Quarter.
Wall art has become a highly visible feature of Valparaiso's historic Old Town in recent years.
Many of the timber-framed 19th century buildings have been clad in corrugated metal to protect them from the harsh weather conditions prevalent in a coastal city.
These old houses on Calle Templeman have the overhanging balconies characteristic of many of the houses in Valparaiso's Historic Quarter - below:
MONTEVIDEO
Uruguay's largest city and administrative capital shows clear signs of recent investment, reflecting the country's political stability and steady economic progress, with luxury apartment buildings and hotels lining the road from the airport, and some signs of gentrification in the older parts of the city - although this still has a long way to go.
Many of the surviving residences are run down: there used to be no tradition of maintaining the fabric of buildings in Uruguay: when a neighbourhood inevitably became dilapidated, the well-to-do residents would simply move elsewhere. However, this attitude is changing, and there are now numerous examples of well restored houses. A good example is Casa Roberto, a house designed in the French style for an English family in the early part of the 20th century, and now run as a hotel. There are many other examples of fin-de-siecle architecture from the Art Nouveau and Belle Epoque eras, and interior decoration in domestic buildings from this period can be lavish - for example, this stained glass stairwell skylight, pictured below:
Uruguay's largest city and administrative capital shows clear signs of recent investment, reflecting the country's political stability and steady economic progress, with luxury apartment buildings and hotels lining the road from the airport, and some signs of gentrification in the older parts of the city - although this still has a long way to go.
Many of the surviving residences are run down: there used to be no tradition of maintaining the fabric of buildings in Uruguay: when a neighbourhood inevitably became dilapidated, the well-to-do residents would simply move elsewhere. However, this attitude is changing, and there are now numerous examples of well restored houses. A good example is Casa Roberto, a house designed in the French style for an English family in the early part of the 20th century, and now run as a hotel. There are many other examples of fin-de-siecle architecture from the Art Nouveau and Belle Epoque eras, and interior decoration in domestic buildings from this period can be lavish - for example, this stained glass stairwell skylight, pictured below:
One of the best vantage point from which to view the city is from the roof of the Palacio Municipal (Town Hall), lavishly constructed in the late 1930s from a design by architect Mauricio Cravotto. Below: SFAUDi founder member Roger Barrett, who relocated to Montevideo with his wife Danielle four years ago, points out some of the architectural features of the building.
Above: Roger Barrett uses a large map of Montevideo on the floor of the Palacio Municipal to describe how Montevideo has developed in recent years. Below, a view of the Palacio Salvo facing Plaza Independencia, designed in the 1920s by Italian architect Mario Palanti. One of the city's major landmarks, it contains offices and apartments, and was built on the site of the old Confiteria La Giralda, where La Cumparsita was composed in 1917 - the dance that helped to make tango respectable around the world.
French and Italian influences are everywhere evident in Montevideo. Below: this kiosk was transported from Paris about 100 years ago. The large awning is a more recent addition.
PUNTA DEL ESTE
This generally upmarket beachside resort to the east of Montevideo partly faces the Rio de la Plata (River Plate) and partly the South Atlantic, and is a major holiday destination - not only for Uruguayans, but also for visitors from all over Latin America. About 60% of foreign visitors are from Argentina.
The western end of the resort is modern - a local version of Surfers Paradise, while the eastern end is more traditional in feeling - more Bournemouth than Miami, with manicured lawns and red brick, half timbered grand hotels, such as L'Auberge, pictured below.
This generally upmarket beachside resort to the east of Montevideo partly faces the Rio de la Plata (River Plate) and partly the South Atlantic, and is a major holiday destination - not only for Uruguayans, but also for visitors from all over Latin America. About 60% of foreign visitors are from Argentina.
The western end of the resort is modern - a local version of Surfers Paradise, while the eastern end is more traditional in feeling - more Bournemouth than Miami, with manicured lawns and red brick, half timbered grand hotels, such as L'Auberge, pictured below.
The more sheltered western section of Punta del Este's long beach, facing the River Plate, is known locally as La Playa Mansa (gentle beach), while the eastern section, exposed to the fierce storms of the South Atlantic, is called La Playa Brava, or wild beach. Below, SFAUDi's Anne Warr on a deserted Playa Brava.
COLONIA DEL SACRAMENTO
This former Portuguese colonial town was founded in 1680 and once marked the southern border of Brazil, changing hands between Portugal and Spain several times over the next century. It's now a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the oldest town in Uruguay. Alone among South American towns and cities, the streets in the original Portuguese section are not laid out according to a rigid grid plan, but follow the topography. A few of the original Portuguese buildings have survived, and archaeological excavations in Plaza Manuel Lobo have uncovered the foundations of early Portuguese colonial public buildings, including the Governor's Mansion (below).
This former Portuguese colonial town was founded in 1680 and once marked the southern border of Brazil, changing hands between Portugal and Spain several times over the next century. It's now a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the oldest town in Uruguay. Alone among South American towns and cities, the streets in the original Portuguese section are not laid out according to a rigid grid plan, but follow the topography. A few of the original Portuguese buildings have survived, and archaeological excavations in Plaza Manuel Lobo have uncovered the foundations of early Portuguese colonial public buildings, including the Governor's Mansion (below).
Cobbled street in the Barrio Historico of Colonia del Sacramento. A feature of the historic quarter are the vintage cars that have been placed in various locations - to give the impression they were abandoned by their owners many years ago. Most of the overseas visitors to the town are from Argentina, only an hour away by ferry across the River Plate
SFAUDi tour members Julius Bokor and Janet Thomson with an old Citroen that's seen better days.
Above: Spanish colonial building now operating as a restaurant
Casa de Nacarello, one of the town's few surviving Portuguese houses
On the waterfront of the northern side of Colonia del Sacramento's historic quarter. Left to right: Julius Bokor, Hamish Robertson, Anne Warr and Janet Thompson
BUENOS AIRES
Arriving in Buenos Aires by ferry from tiny Colonia del Sacramento is a shock to the senses: you walk straight out of the ferry terminal into the heart of this enormous, sophisticated, pulsating city. It looks prosperous, the buildings well cared for - even the notorious broken pavements - at least in the central area - are being repaired. But, paradoxically, Argentina has plunged into yet another financial crisis, with a falling currency and short term interest rates at 60%.
Arriving in Buenos Aires by ferry from tiny Colonia del Sacramento is a shock to the senses: you walk straight out of the ferry terminal into the heart of this enormous, sophisticated, pulsating city. It looks prosperous, the buildings well cared for - even the notorious broken pavements - at least in the central area - are being repaired. But, paradoxically, Argentina has plunged into yet another financial crisis, with a falling currency and short term interest rates at 60%.
Above: office towers of the Catalinas Norte financial district, located close to where ferry passengers arriving from Colonia del Sacramento disembark. Below: a prosperous street in the Retiro neighbourhood, with Belle Epoque to pre-war modernist styles of architecture. The cut-off corner on the building to the right is typical of Buenos Aires, and features in many early 20th century buildings in the city: it makes it easier to spot traffic coming round the corner.
Below: architectural historian, journalist and tango instructor Diego Braude (left) points out some features of the Retiro area.
Below: the opulence of these Parisian style buildings dates from the city's prosperity more than a century ago. But unlike Paris, local planning codes weren't as strict, allowing even grander facades than those permitted by Baron Haussmann, who insisted that all the new developments be the same height and style, and faced with the same cream coloured limestone.
Above: the entrance to the Palacio Fernández Anchorena in Recoleta. This was once a private house. Designed in the Second Empire style by French-Argentine architect Eduardo Le Monnier in 1907, it was commissioned by Juan Antonio Fernández and his wife Rosa de Anchorena. Below: one of the ornate reception rooms.
Above: Silvia Rios (second from the left) describes the history of the Palacio Anchorena. Below: Cafe Tortoni, founded in 1858, and named after the Cafe Tortoni in Paris.
The apparent prosperity of the central urban area, the heavy investment in infrastructure over the last five years - the upgraded highways leading to plush suburbs, the impressive renovation of Retiro railway terminus, the gleaming new skyscrapers - can be deceptive. One doesn't have to go far to pass one of the villas miserias, or shanty towns that are situated throughout the capital (below). There are more than 600 of these neighbourhoods in Buenos Aires, despite various slum clearance programmes. After the collapse of the Argentine peso in 2002, more than half the population fell below the poverty line, in a nation that once had the potential to be richer than Australia.
Below: final day in Argentina - the cafe at MALBA - Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires. The gallery has an extensive collection of works by Latin American artists from the beginning of the 20th century to the present.